First step: sowing and seedling raising
You can either directly sow seeds in your planters or sow them after they’re soaked in the warm water whose temperature is 50 degrees to 55 degrees for 10 to 12 hours. Before sowing, you need to put the nutrient soil into the planter and keep it 3 to 4 centimeters away from the edge of the planter. Water the soil until it’s all wet, you can sow when the soil is a little dry. If you want to plant more than one tomato in a planter, you can sow 1 to 2 seeds every 10 to 15 centimeters. Use 0.5 centimeters of seeding matrix to cover the seeds evenly and a piece of plastic film should be applied, too. The plastic film should be removed after sprouting. After sowing, the temperature should be controlled, for the daytime, it’s 20 to 28 degrees while for the nighttime it should be above 10 degrees. Few days before transplant, you should control the watering appropriately.
Second step:transplanting
When the young seedlings have 3 to 4 leaves, you can transplant them. Before transplanting, wash the planter and put tile or nylon yarn at the bottom of the planter. After that, you should put soil into the planter. Use a gardening shovel to dig young seedlings out from the original planter from 8 centimeters from the surface of the soil and it should be around 5 centimeters away from the root system . Put them into the new planter and keep them upright, shake the planter lightly. You should immediately water the seedlings until water oozes from the hole of the planter.
Third step: Daily management
Water management: After transplanting, wet out the soil. Then, water every 3 to 5 days. Control the watering quantity before fruit setting and keep the soil wet in the fruit swelling period.
Fertilization management: Pour 200mg/kg efficient composite liquid fertilizer every 10 days or apply matured chicken manure before blossoming.
Pruning: Which means to remove the axillary buds. Normally, remove them when they are around 5 to 6 centimeters.
Training: Single stem training and double stem training are frequently used. Single stem training: Remain the bough and remove all the lateral branches successively. It leads to less but larger fruit. This method is suitable for premature varieties dwarf and close planted and indeterminate varieties. Double stem training: Keep the bough and the first branch of the first inflorescence and make them grow and the same time. It leads to more fruit and increase individual yield. It is suitable for varieties with good soil fertility and strong growth vigor.
Topping: Which means to remove apical growing point. When the plant is 80 centimeters high, leave 1 to 2 leaves and remove the growing point.
Flower thinning and fruit thinning: When there are too many fruit, you need to do this in order to keep the quality and shape of the fruit.
Moreover, basal yellow old leaves and branches should be removed in time for better ventilation and light and reduce the consumption of nutrition. You may need:
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